Ha Long Bay

After the traffic, pollution, and chaos of Hanoi, we ventured to the interior of Quảng Ninh province to explore the vibrant rice paddies and flower plantations. We arrived at a small port full were greeted by a large boat with orange sails which for two days transported us to a magical realm.

The name Ha Long means "descending dragon." According to legend, the Jade Emperor ordered a dragon to help stop the Chinese sea invasion. The dragon swooped down from the sky, spitting chunks of jade and destroying the enemy ships. These chunks of jade went on to form the many islands which we see today. The legend also says that the dragon is still alive and sleeping at the bottom of the bay.

Ha Long Bay is located in northeast Vietnam and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage due to the unique geological processes which have created an incredible number of islands and caves. You typically visit the bay in boats which hold about 25 people and have on-board restaurants which serve meals during the cruise.

If you want to enjoy the best landscapes in Vietnam while learning a bit about its history, I’d really recommend visiting Ha Long Bay.

Ha Long Bay is in the Quảng Ninh Province of North Vietnam. This lovely place is home to almost 2000 islands with over 1000 different shapes and sizes. Many are nothing more than the tip of a seamount, while others are filled with exotic plants and coves and caves. Travel agencies in major Vietnamese cities offer charter boats which often anchor the boats in the middle of the bay for an overnight trip. Even if you are adventure lovers, you should take the most expensive offer (after haggling, of course). From a Western point of view, it is still affordable and saves us from surprises like discovering you have rats as cabin mates.

It is certainly the most spectacular scenery in Vietnam. This bay is located north of the country, on the Gulf of Tonkin near the Chinese border and 170 km east of Hanoi. It extends along a coastline of 120 km. The presence of karst formations and islands of various sizes and shapes, there are 1969 islands (mostly unnamed). The name of the Bay (Ha Long) means descending dragon, according to legend, the Jade Emperor ordered a celestial dragon in order to stop the enemies from invading at sea. The dragon spat jade pieces that were used to destroy the enemy boats and well formed, with pieces of jade, the islets we currently see.

We sit on the patio of our lavish ship as the sun fades behind the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tokin. My mother lights a cigarette – she doesn't normally smoke. I join her. Downstairs in the dining area, a drunken, newly-wed couple from France sings Karaoke. The sound hangs repugnant in the air like a foul smell refusing to shift. The bartender looks on; the others clear the tables.

The sun melts into puddles of different shades of red and orange. Around us rise dozens of karst peaks from the ocean floor – each wind and rain cut. They appear menacing, I think – foreboding and ominous. The boat softly rocks; around us float several other ships each anchored for the night. They glow. In the distance, I see fishermen and fisherwomen pull up their nets and return to their homes. People live on these islands. Our guide tells us they struggle to get decent education. The darkness blankets us; the gargantuan peaks stand still. I hope.