We decided to try the Berg lake trail...
We decided to try the Berg lake trail which circles around the base of the indomitable Mount Robson, 3954m and highest in the Canadian Rockies. Before starting the trail you need to register with the park center and as it is a popular trail booking your campsites in advance is recommended. Important note of caution the mountain seems to generate its own weather so you need to be prepared for extreme conditions. We experienced baking sunshine, electrical storms, snow and hail.
Day 1 from the trail head the first 7km winds through a forest of red cedar and hemlock trees. At 7km we came to the first campsite beside the turquoise waters of Kinney Lake. Second breakfast and onwards across the Flats over a series of temporary looking bridges. Upon crossing the large suspension bridge we arrived at the second campsite Whitehorn (11km). Lunch in the wooden shelter and then we tackled the final 5kms of the day with 500m ascent. During the ascent you seriously consider if packing quite so much gear was a good idea but luckily there are three stunning waterfalls to distract you on the way up.
We spent our first night on the trail at Emperor Fall campground. The tent pads are on the bank of the rushing Robson River with Mount Robson looming on the opposite bank. All the campgrounds in this park are equipped with metal cabinets to keep food safe from resident wildlife. Although the mouse that seemed to live under our tent made off with some noodle crumbs.
Day 2 in less favorable conditions we set off for Berg Lake. It is certainly worth the effort the Berg glacier comes right down and calves directly into the lake. This is a view you will never get tired of and due the unsettled weather it is a constantly changing one. We pitched our tents for the night at Rearguard campground.
The next two hours were spent in the tent playing thunder or glacier as the world boomed and cracked around us. Once things had quietened down a little we ventured out to get an up date on the weather forecast from the nearby ranger hut and then to cross the border over into Alberta to see Adolphus lake. Rearguard camp ground has only four tent pads and is tranquil with arresting views down the valley. However in bad weather you will need to hike 1km back to Berg Lake campground to make use of their shelter for cooking. This shelter is a good place to swap noodle and other recipes or stories with fellow campers.
Day 3 we tackled the aptly named Snowbird pass. I think this was my favorite trail in our Rockies adventure. As the plaque indicates the Robson glacier has retreated substantially in the last century but it is still an awesome sight. The trail follows the Robson River to the lake at the toe of the glacier. From here there is some minor scrambling to reach the lateral moraine. The first flakes of snow arrived but we didn't mind too much as we walked along the top of the moraine looking down onto the crumpled icy surface of the glacier below. Climbing up past a waterfall we arrived in an enchanting hidden valley, think like Shangri La or Narnia. In fact this is a breeding spot for caribou and so access is restricted until July when they move higher into the mountains. Finally we saw our destination the Snowbird pass (2400m). After a steep rocky climb for 30mins we reached the pass, crossed once more into Alberta and onto the Reef Icefield.
The return route follows the same trail but we were kept entertained by the super model behavior of the hoary marmots. They do not seem to be at all wary of people and perform a series of marmot style poses atop their observation mounds.
Day 4 the return, 22kms in descent. Whilst exiting the Marmot campground toilet I saw Kinney step (the point reached by the unfortunate vicar on his 12th failed attempt to reach the summit), however we never saw the summit of elusive Mount Robson.
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